Recipe for S.P Scotch: a primary snuff made by Messrs. Taddy & Co

IF A MODERATOR IS READING THIS THEN PLEASE REMOVE THE IMAGES FROM ‘Dozens of original recipes by Sales and Pollard and Taddy & Co Rediscovered in Museum Archive’ Once this has been done I will apply to the museum for permission to use their images on this forum. Until then I can’t upload any more pictures which is a shame as I have a great many interesting finds. Thank you.


A hundredweight (cwt) is here 112 pounds in weight. Puncheons are barrels holding 132 gallons or more. Hhd referred to in the text means Hogshead. Pot liquor = 4 gallons: cisterns 1 inch = 5 gallons. Bin L=11 ft, D=5ft, W=8ft.

Lime, Pearl Ash and Alum is measured in what appears to be ‘ts’ which I guess means ‘tsp’ or ‘teaspoon’ but I’m not certain. The earliest patent for Pearl Ash in the UK is dated 1749.

I’ve rewritten the recipe so it makes more sense (to me) but the original text is at the bottom. The entire process of fermentation, stacking and liquoring would without doubt make much more sense to anyone here who processes tobacco for snuff. Perhaps anyone with that knowledge reading this could compare this process with that used today (which is likely very similar) and hazard a guess what this S.P would be like.

S.P SCOTCH

Take 15 cwt (1,680lbs) good stalks cut in the machine and 9 cwt (1,008lb) Fine Rich Virginia Hand Leaf (which has been cut in the stalk machine and run under large stones sufficiently to bruise it so that it may take the liquor more easily) [See note at end regarding shag smalls and stalk mixtures]

Each tobacco type is placed in bags of 56lb in weight. [30 bags of Stalk and 18 bags of Leaf]
Dissolve in the upper cistern 70ts Pearl Ash (potassium carbonate) in 100 gallons of water.
Slack in the lower cistern 50ts lime.
Put 5 bags of Leaf out to the bin and make them level.
Let the Pearl Ash water (upper cistern) into the lime (lower cistern) and keep stirring it while applying 3 pots to the first layer of leaf
the 2nd layer - 4 bags Stalk and 3 pots
the 3rd layer - 4 bags Stalk and 3 pots
the 4th layer - 4 bags Leaf and 3 pots
the 5th layer - 4 bags Stalk and 3 pots
the 6th layer - 4 bags Stalk and 3 pots
the 7th layer - 4 bags Leaf and 2 pots
the 8th layer - 4 bags Stalk and 3 pots
the 9th layer - 4 bags Leaf and the remaining liquor (2 pots.)

Then take 5 bags of stalks and rake them well (the remaining bag of leaf used on a floor between the cistern and bin to keep it dry) and into this drain the cistern, not removing the lime left but put into it 56ts Alum with 28 gallons of hot water gradually - 2 or 3 pots at a time.

When it is dissolved put 3 pots on the layer and then 5 bags of stalk and with the remaining liquor wash the top of the bin so that it may not show white. Let it lay 24 hours, turn it and pack it tight into 3 hogsheads. Let it remain for 2 months during which time turn the hogsheads over once and then unpack it into puncheons and send it to the mill for grinding.

S.P SCOTCH (original text)

Take 15 cwt good stalks cut in machine and 9 cwt Fine Rich Virginia hand Leaf (which has been cut in the stalk machine and run under large stones sufficiently to bruise it that it may take liquor more kindly) each weighed in bags of 56. Dissolve in the upper cistern 70ts Pearl Ash in 100 Gallons water. Slack in the lower one 50ts lime then put 5 bags leaf out to the bin – make them level and letting the P.A water into the lime and keeping it stirred up you put your pot in and take 3 pots to this layer of leaf the next layer is 4 Bags of Stalk & 3 pots the 3rd layer 4 bags Stalk 3 pots the 4th layer 4 bags Leaf & 3 pots 5th 4 bags Stalk & 3 pots 6th layer 4 bags Stalk 3 pots 7th 4 bags Leaf & 2 pots 8th layer 4 bags Stalks & 3 pots 9th layer 4 bags Leaf and the remaining liquor (2 pots.) then put 5 bags Stalks and rake them well (the one odd bag of Leaf used on a floor between cistern and bin to keep it dry) and into this drain the cistern well not removing the lime left but put into it 56ts Alum with 28 Gallons hot water gradually (i.e 2 or 3 pots at a time) when dissolved put 3 pots on layer then 5 bags and with the remainder of liquor wash the top of bin so that it may not show white. Let it lay 24 hours, turn it and pack it tight into 3 Hhds , let it remain 2 months during which time turn the Hhds over once and then unpack it into puncheons and send it to the grind.

Note: A succinct version of this recipe for S.P Scotch, beautifully written, which I would like to upload as an image, lists 784lbs Virginia Hand Leaf and 224lbs Shag Smalls which together make the 1008lbs leaf. It stipulates a mixture of Virginia and Kentucky stalks. The version also mentions an engine which could have been the ‘10 Horse Engine’ for cutting supplied in 1811 - the year Dandy George became Regent. Otherwise it’s the same recipe as above.

The manufacturer could make three parcels of S.P (snuff -work) in a day. What is noteworthy is the difference in weights, for example: 2,328lb 2,478lb and 2,412lb parcels - a difference of 150lb between the lightest and heaviest parcel. This suggests a very slight variation in taste between parcels.

References to S.P 100 occur quite often in the Taddy & Co recipes. The significance of 100 (at least according to my source) is that the S.P has been mixed with another Scotch with 100 parts S.P hence S.P 100. Examples listed include No.1, Jefferson’s Mixture and S.F.

There is no reason to doubt that this system of nomenclature also applies to Wilson’s S.P 100 and that it is a mixture using 100 parts unscented S.P to whatever else is used in the mixture. I hope this clears up the mystery regarding the meaning of 100.

It’s interesting that Wilsons of Sharrow claim that their S.P 100 is similar to J&H Wilson’s S.P No.1. If the latter is made with 100 parts S.P like Taddy and Co’s S.P No.1 then this is hardly surprising.

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Must be pounds for that great big amount of tobacco, not spoons of any kind (spoons would give homeopathic (effectless) mass fractions of salts.

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Pounds (lbs) are expressed elsewhere. PA and alum are expressed as ‘ts’ or ‘ty’. I can’t upload the pages until I have permission to do so so I’ve made a crop. Any guess what it means?
measurement - Copy

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The unit is probably Ty or Tray. Elsewhere the notes say that 4 gallons (or 32 pints) is equal to 40 Ty. Correct me if I’m wrong but based on this reckoning a Ty is equal to 0.8 pints. This being the case then 56 pints of Pearl Ash (or 70ty) are added to 800 pints of water in the upper cistern with 40 pints of lime (or 50ty) slaked in the lower cistern for the first liquoring and 44.8 pints of ground Alum (or 56ty) added to 224 pints of hot water for the second liquoring process.

It would be worth making sure that amounts are correct as this record of manufacturing S.P Scotch snuff is not only late 18th/early 19th century but probably the only contemporary record of the actual manufacturing process (as opposed to coded recipes) in existence. It is likely unique. For that one thanks a junior partner who made copious notes while learning his trade.

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Now this makes sense, tray. For convenience sake I have converted measuring units to metric ones and calculated ingredients by mass %:

(1220 kg tobacco + 580 kg water + 78 kg potassium carbonate + 77 kg potassium oxide + 45 kg potassium aluminium sulfate = 2000 kg snuff)

Tobacco 61%
Water 29%
Potash 3.9%
Quicklime 3.85%
Alum 2.25%

Looks pretty good. I can imagine that this formula gives snuff akin to Kendal Brown (if made with fire cured stems). Tempted to procure some alum, lime and give this prescription a whirl.

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Fascinating. If you happen to do so, please report back. The broader Kendal Brown profile is rightly a classic, and I am sure there are many others who fancy it as much as I do. It would be nice to have a recipe in the proverbial file box for something like it.

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@Demigros dont forget that the most important part of a snuff recipe is the tobacco. If you cant procure a tobacco like the one they use for Kendal Brown, then the homemade snuff will not be close to the original. The alkalizers play a role for free basing the nicotine and for the nose feeling but it all boils down to the quality of the tobacco. So I think recreating a Kendal Brown at home will result in a totally different snuff (aroma-wise) if you use random tobacco for making it.

It is more rational to aim for creating your own homemade snuff (using those recipes) than aiming to recreate an existing one (like Kendal Brown), because sooner or later you will find out that all boils down to the tobacco leaves that are inside. I have made many “Kendal Brown style” snuff in terms of recipe but none of them are even close to the aroma of Kendal Brown tobacco.

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@Demigros, moist, KB-like brown scotch is an easy one. Pretty much any flour (preferably with some dark, fired component in the blend, including whole midrib part of leaf, or even supplemented with additional amount of midrib (“stem”) flour), ground medium-to-coarse, with 26-30% water and at least 4% potash (of total product weight), with or without the addition of salt (let’s say, 3%), with or without the addition of some ammonium salt (like ammonium chloride or ammonium carbonate – at least 0.5%) or ammonium water gives snuff of that kind. Moderately “salted” small batches (with mass part of potash not exceeding 6% of total product mass) turn to decent by the end of a week (small – think 10-20 g or so).

Mind you, some old prescriptions might call for total amount of salts north of 10% (like this “great instruction for producing scotch snuff”) and extra ageing.

Talking about this particular S.P Scotch, I’m mostly curious about the alum component. Thing of bygone centuries, for sure, just like cream of tartar. If I manage to find this compound available in reasonably small amounts locally (50-100 g), I’ll push the button and report back.

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I assume that the backbone of KB is a copious amount of stalk (midrib) flour, for the most part. And definitely fire cured. Or stalks all-/any-sorts + fire cured whole leaf (or smalls thereof) for the rest part.

Speaking of stalks, this Taddy & Co S.P Scotch calls for 62.5% stalks (i. e. midrib) and 37.5% Virginia leaf. Assuming it goes in whole (midrib-including), stalks to lamina ratio would be close to 3:1 (by weight).

KB is a scotch type snuff. Literally, a brown one.

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No one can possibly expect an exact facsimile (especially if it is homemade). As used in the recipe - tobacco apart - the hogsheads, puncheons, factory environment and the mill itself together with the industrial production would all lend themselves to a unique flavour which can’t be duplicated – even by an existing manufactory let alone a cottage industry.

I’ve been through the notes but unfortunately can’t find anything (as yet) on how their tobacco stalk was cured. The actual recipe itself calls for a 1680lb mix of Virginia & Kentucky Stalks (presumably a 50/50 ratio of each), 784lb of Virginia Hand Leaf and 224lb Shag Smalls.

But I really hope you do yield to temptation. It would be wonderful to resurrect (of sorts) an original Taddy & Co snuff from an archived grave back into light and life again after well over two centuries.

The company was founded in 1784 but certainly by 1790 was in full swing when they moved to larger premises at Fenchurch Street. The manufacturing process described probably dates from around that time although the junior partner’s notes were written later. In any event the snuff (as you say) must be good as the company became fabulously wealthy with their products, purchasing Mordern Hall Estate which is now a National Trust property.

Henry Dupre Labouchere (the renowned London journalist who wrote the Smoking Carriage articles stating that S.P is after Sales.Pollard) also mentions Violet Brown Scotch, renowned for its pungency. This was also made by Taddy & Co. Neither the Sales.Pollard nor the Taddy recipes (coded as 8L) make much sense to me but again the junior partner at the latter company provides a detailed method of production. S.P Scotch and Violet Brown Scotch are the two recipes that interest me the most. The flavour and unique colour of the latter seems due to the Scotch mix and additional liquoring with salt tartar but it is more labour intensive to make.

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Seems like a great start to re-creating an at-home version. Where I am located (US) small bottles of food grade alum (potassium aluminum sulfate) are easily available in any large grocery (it is commonly used in certain pickling and canning recipes), but obviously the situation may well differ as per culinary traditions in your part of the world.

In any case, I for one would certainly be interested to hear about the results should you work up a test on this template for a Kendal Brown. Fortunately, it sounds like the constituent tobaccos for the base flour are all of a common and easily available type (at least for me in the US, and in other places where the common whole leaf types can be had at retail).

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Obviously, and I cannot imagine that any tobacco enthusiast would think otherwise, but why not give it a go and see what the result is like? I mean, beyond simple historical interest what is the point of sussing out these old recipes if not to try to re-create them and see what happens? The same can be said for any food recipe from previous eras – everything we have to make them today is very different then when they were written: raw ingredients (modern hybrid crops vs. old world heirloom open-pollinated crops), cooking technologies (modern gas convection ovens vs. a wood-fired hearth), et cetera, et cetera.

But, does that mean that we should not attempt to make recipes from a cookbook published, say, two centuries ago, and just consider them a historical curiosity? Reading about the past is great, but trying to capture at least a scintilla of its experience is even better in my opinion.

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Obviously, which is why @volunge mentions using fired-cured stems, no? I can’t imagine that anyone who is actually blending their own at home would think otherwise. I mean, even a casual home baker knows you cannot use red hard whole wheat flour to make a baguette, or high protein bread flour to prepare the batter for an angel food cake.

Respectfully, I am sorry that you are misinterpreting my comments here on this forum, or where I am coming from. I am new here, yes, but have 30+ years of extensive hobbyist experience in the world of fine tobaccos (pipes, cigars [including rolling and properly aging my own]; nasal snuff; moist snuff; snus; along with blending at home and growing and curing my own too over many seasons in the past). I understand the basics alright, I would wager.

A dozen or so years ago I stopped using combustible tobacco (pipes; cigars; hand-rolled) and have only used smokeless (snuff and snus, essentially), and thus my interests here in conversing with other like-minded enthusiasts re: nasal snuff.

I do not think one needs to approach creating a blend at home that looks to follow a broader template of a well-established snuff style (in this case, Kendal Brown) with the assumption that one has already failed before even starting because one, for example, is not entirely sure that the Kentucky fire cured you are using is the exact same cultivar that GH used for their Kendal last year, or that your VA was Middle Belt sweet flue cured rather than Old Belt red flue cured. If a blend does not work out, or the recipe does not produce the results desired, at least you tried, and likely learned something along the way.

Perhaps this thread in the forum is just about historical data, rather than hands-on application, but I assumed the latter given the comments of @volunge.

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I agree that it is worth a shot. That’s why I wrote:

But I really hope you do yield to temptation. It would be wonderful to resurrect (of sorts) an original Taddy & Co snuff from an archived grave back into light and life again after well over two centuries.

I’m very interested in how this is going to pan out and have many more recipes to offer to anyone who wishes to use them. I have no pecuniary interest but wish that should anyone make commerce from this recipe (however small) then credit is given to Taddy & Co (and not offered for sale under a different name.) Taddy’s S.P Scotch is the name of the recipe and should be the name of any possible recreation.

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@Demigros I was just adding my two cents because I read your previews post fast and thought you are gonna use this recipe to recreate a Kendal Brown. I didnt accuse you of not knowing that or anything.

Peace

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Excuse my ignorance but how are you converting an Imperial Pint into metric weights for each of the salts? Thank you.

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By density. The amount of potash was calculated as potassium carbonate anhydrous (2.43 g/cm³), alum – as potassium aluminium dodecahydrate (1.76 g/cm³).

A handy mass fraction calculator can be found on fsxolver.com.

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For the potassium carbonate, for example, to achieve a starting density (concentration) of 2.43 g/cm³ i.e., 2.43 g/ml, in 56 pints, i.e., 31.8226 litres, I reckoned you would need 2.43 x 31.8226 = 77.33 kg. which is very close to your estimate. I have not checked the other salts which are doubtless accurate – and thank you. All sounding good.

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Here is the recipe for S.P. Scotch. The difference between Scotch (common Scotch) and Brown Scotch according to contemporary descriptions which appear in the snuff lexicon after 1760 is that the latter is moister through the liquoring process as described above which will also impart a distinctive flavour to the snuff. The recipe calls for 2,688lb of tobacco. On the right-hand side are figures for manufacture of 1,000lbs of tobacco. All figures in the column on the right are obtained by multiplying those in the column on the left by 0.372.

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