It’s one of these problems that keep me awake at night: how do you preserve the humidity of moist snuff when decanted into a snuff box? If I carry more than a day’s portion of snuff (when travelling etc.) it dries out in a day and a half. Wooden boxes in particular appear to absorb quite a lot of the moisture, and on Patrick Collins’ site, for instance, you will find an advice to use the wooden boxes for dry snuff only. I’m half wondering whether this is to preserve the snuff, the box, or both. There was a very interesting comment by @tboyer in a topic about snuff boxes, it was about sealing the snuff box with bees’ wax to keep the moisture in. I own a La Jurassienne exactly like yours (with the plowman and all), and I’m very interested to know how you waxed it (inside or out? what kind of wax? doesn’t the wax affect the snuff?), and how long you can keep moist snuff in it now. Also, does anyone else have experience with preserving moist snuff (a Schmalzler or a Princes’ for instance) in snuff boxes? When travelling, I carry a small airtight plastic jar, from which I decant daily rations of snuff into my box, but I’m wondering whether anyone has alternative containers or methods.
I put my boxes in a jar while not in my pocket. This helps keep them from drying out so that when snuff is added they don’t suck out the moisture.
Very interesting thread, I dont have the answer, but would like to see suggestions from our senior members, I just got my first wood snuff box ( snuffing 4 months roughly ) and found that when I put toque quit in it… It stayed the same… When I put NTSU ( moister snuffer ) it dried out to hell…I really think snuffboxes like Patrick Collins said is for dry snuff, I snuff outta glass bottles on the road for moister snuff
I don’t carry my antique wood boxes any more. The snuffhouse.org plastic boxes keep my snuff moist.The rococo plastic boxes are good also; I prefer the snuffhouse.org box. I did use paragon wax on my french wooden boxes inside and out and I would use a piece of clear tape on the catch of the top lid for a better seal. I don’t have bees! this wax I use for my pipes. wipe on wipe off let dry over night, check for air leaks. repeat if necessary. no leaks, fill box pinch only, a spoon will dig threw the finish. Apply to hinge and sides of lid when needed.
I just finished making a wooden snuff box, I used and unscented candle, probably paraffin wax, I’m on the lookout for some Bee’s wax. I rubbed it in the wood inside and out then buffed it off thoroughly with a cloth, several times, it seemed to help it’s a must for the slide area. I wanted the warmth and character of the wood but you can’t beat those plastic boxes, I also like the 14g silver screw tins from Mr Snuff I just received 2 more. they’re small enough that I can take a variety with me to work or where ever. The only trouble with them, sometimes when I put on my coat I sound like Santa Clause and his Reindeer.
i agree with basement-shaman. Both rococo and snuffhouse boxes are great. I put dry snuff or 1-day moist snuff in my wooden box.
Thanks for the helpful comments, everyone. @basement_shaman : I think I’ll start using the plastic Rococo boxes for moist snuff from now on. Somehow I assumed they weren’t sufficiently airtight. Applying pipe wax is not a bad idea, I’m not sure whether Paragon wax is sold over here, but I’ll check a local pipe store for an alternative. The most important thing is it should be odourless, and it should dry out and harden, so as not to contaminate the snuff. I like to carry the antique boxes around, but actually they’re more for festive occasions, and I don’t see why I shouldn’t stick with dry snuff for these occasions. However, I like the ‘modern’ snuff boxes with sliding lids for their ease of use. @3_D : Your comment about Santa Claus made me laugh out loud. I tend to carry so many snuff tins around in my pockets that I sound like a &%$# Swiss cow.
There was a very interesting comment by @tboyer in a topic about snuff boxes, it was about sealing the snuff box with bees’ wax to keep the moisture in. I own a La Jurassienne exactly like yours (with the plowman and all), and I’m very interested to know how you waxed it (inside or out? what kind of wax? doesn’t the wax affect the snuff?), and how long you can keep moist snuff in it now.
As for how I applied the bees wax, well I let my box heat up under a lamp, with the lid opened. then applied the wax, with my fingers, then let it sit over night and repeated the process the next day. I feel that the warmth of one’s hand help for better penetration. That is how some oil gun stocks, using tung oil or linseed oil, adding sanding of course for the gun stocks The bees wax does have a slight scent, but I don’t mind it, one could use some sort of neutral wax if one was concerned about the smell. The bees wax did work, but also San Francisco is very wet and foggy. I’ve been keeping SG black rappee (a very moist snuff) and even after about 5 days the snuff doesn’t seem to have lost any moisture, but I also top it off, and stand it on it’s end at night. If I start to have any issues with dryness, I’ll perhaps put some orange peel in at night or keep it in a jar
@tboyer : Thanks for the advice. As for humidity, I’m afraid Amsterdam beats SF the whole year round (it’s horrible), so that should not be a problem…
I have treated a couple wooden boxes with beeswax. I picked it up from a craft store (both Hobby Lobby and Michael’s carry it in the candle making section). I rubbed some on, both inside and out, being none-too-gentle, allowing for some chunks to form, as this was actually ideal for my purposes. after that, I held both the lid and the body (there are slide boxes I’m talking about) under a blow dryer with low pressure for a while. Not only did this melt the wax, but it also opened the pores of the wood so it accepted the wax more effectively. After that, I let it sit for a couple hours to cool (overnight once, during work the second time) then I just rubbed it with my fingers. I fairly-well saturated the boxes, not concerned about the smell carrying over. Beeswax in small amounts is actually fairly mild when it comes to scent, but does tend to absorb scent easily. This is more of a problem than it giving any scent off, since I need to be a bit more careful about choosing the right snuff for it. I tend to keep my more natural snuffs in there so there isn’t a lot of cross-contamination.
Yes, aniseed snuff will ghost a wooden box, then pack the box with baking soda to absorb the scent ,but it takes a few days. Plastic boxes are the way to go, not a major tragedy if lost or destroyed
Yes, aniseed snuff will ghost a wooden box, then pack the box with baking soda to absorb the scent ,but it takes a few days. Plastic boxes are the way to go, not a major tragedy if lost or destroyed
Yes…I fear that plastic is more practical, but an interesting snuff box does seem to peak more interest, and perhaps less likely to be mistaken for something else. Such as one person on here that reported being taken down to the local police station.
fairly mild when it comes to scent, but does tend to absorb scent easily. This is more of a problem than it giving any scent off, since I need to be a bit more careful about choosing the right snuff for it. I tend to keep my more natural snuffs in there so there isn’t a lot of cross-contamination.
It looks like the only way out of this dilemma of wood snuffboxes picking up scent, is to of course acquire more wood snuffboxes.
True, especially for highly aromatic and finely ground tobacco, such as Indian snuffs. One of my wooden boxes is now dedicated to Indian snuffs and will probably never serve any other purpose anymore. I naively spoiled five grams of White Elephant by putting it in the wooden box I’d used for Super Chetak before, supposing the cleaning job I’d done on it was sufficient. I still feel sorry for the Elephant. It was mortally wounded. I was not amused.
I had used a wooden box for some WE Garrett Scotch the next time I filled it with T Whiskey and Honey, and the W&H suffered for it I got it out in time and it wasn’t that much. I filled the box with Baking Soda for a day or 2 and that took out the scent. It also took a bit of moisture from the wood and my next batch of Toque Natural dried rather quickly. Best bet is probably dedicate it to a snuff type and let it reach an equilibrium of moisture and scent.
You could try some unscented cigarette tobacco instead of baking soda. Let it take the scent and later throw it away (or smoke it if you like). Green tea is also very good for sucking up any smell that lingers around, of course take only cheap tea. Both tobacco and tea are probably much gentler to the wood than soda.
One my Heartwood boxes is ghosted with the scent of Elmo’s reserve, but that’s okay, but I wanted to dedicate the box to Elmo’s anyway. 
As much as I love wood boxes, I found that my moist snuff dried out as well. So, I stick with only the small Heartwoods, and only put in as much as I’ll use in 1 or 2 days, and I’m good to go. Gives me a good excuse to snuff everything in the box that day. lol! But the plastic boxes have always kept any of my snuff in good condition.
One of the tricks I picked up on another forum (of totally unrelated topic) for sealing wood is to paint a few coats with a 50-50 mix of white spirit (turpentine substitute) and linseed oil. This thins the linseed oil for better penetration of the wood to help get a better seal. Has this been tried with snuff, and does anyone know if it would be detrimental (react) in any way?
I’m not sure about linseed oil I don’t think it ever completely dries. You would have to be sure to allow it to dry until all the solvents were evaporated. I’d be a little afraid of it. I read about a finish used on carved bowls that is supposed to be food contact approved and dries completely hard. It an extract oil like tung oil but i can’t remember the name I’ll try to look it up. and get back
Nice one 3_D. The only other oil I know of which WILL dry completely and seal is Le Tonkinois which is an air hardening oil akin to a varnish. It’s often used in marine environments and is better than varnishes for waterproofing, but you wouldn’t want it round any moving parts (lids) as I can see it causing problems (it’s my no means lubricating like bees wax is)