The molinos at Fribourg & Treyer have ground an exquisite nasal snuff that honours the memory of Brother Ramón Pané and makes proud the Sevillian ghosts of the Real Fábrica de Tabacos. Slightly floral with hints of clove, it celebrates the blossoms of the bitter orange tree. Baroque & Moorish, it calls to mind Flamenco dancers exorcising their demons in the sweltering summer heat. In a dining car of the fabled Spanish Train, I see God and the Devil sharing a pinch while awaiting the preparation of their cocktails by Pascal-Olivier, Comte de Negroni.